The conceptual and never-obliging capital of fashion (a name so indisputably irremovable) – Paris, managed to bring us a strongly reminiscent array of collections and news from its top designers even while the economic and threatening booms are exploding around.
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s ‘Last year at Marienbad’-inspired collection still lingers onto to one’s mind in shades of clean black and white for spring summer 2011 whilst Versace and Maurizio Galante have taken it upon themselves to shock up some colours for the upcoming spring summer 2012.
Maurizio Galante patched up his fabrics to create extravagant volumes in prominent lime -green silks. The headgears felt like variations of the thorn crown of Christ, a sehra (floral veil covering groom’s face in the north-western Indian subcontinent) and planet rings. Pleated chiffons and crepes covered over
the dresses to form an effect of satin rags, in the shape of modules or tags or tassels. Galante also played up the collection with kirigami (an art of paper hangings) cut fabrics. Overall a sense of aliens and blazing brutality mirrored; also in Versace, wherein Donatella brought back the famous Barbarella styled silhouette in Versace’s signature shiny materials with slits on the shoulder caps and waistlines. Colours were even more stupefying with fluorescent oranges and yellows flashing ahead of a luxurious background. By the end, a Missoni/Ikat styled bright orange gown was displayed all of which together shined just so exaggeratedly. However, there was a use of ivory in the collection as well which tried to tone down the flamboyance.
Light beige tomes was also used in soft, yet clinging pants and translucent tops in the Spring Summer 2012 runway of Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci where the 40’s style ankle strapped sandals came back. The show also had breaks of black in a slight fetishist way and ended with super-sparkling silver sequins.
The nature element of Galante’s show and the beige usage of Versace and Givenchy this season are seen fused together in a much more delicate, sweeter and younger capsule collection – Garden Party of Valentino by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli where the feel of nature is fluidised with a Japanese water colour effect. Nocturnal scenarios of flowers on skirts and a tulle bag with butterflies and flowers of coloured leather rendered memories of capturing butterflies on farms with a net and wearing a light frock in summer. A continuation of the earthy feel is seen in the new bag play accessory of Jean Paul Gaultier by a necklace made of woody brown leather and leaf green buckles.
Paris, quintessentially, for the upcoming bright weather has given us a very bright silver lining in the cloud. Is all the extravagance and return to mother nature, but, to rise hopes that dear Europe and the world can and will fight the threat of recession or even perhaps, the apocalyptic prediction?
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