Travelling down to Rome from Paris for Spring-Summer 2012 Haute Couture, to pay tribute to the couture of the city of eternal beauty, one is pleasantly surprised to see the continuingly predominant modern shocks of colours in perfect contrast to an equally dominating B&W palette this year.
Nino Lettieri expanded classic clothing in terms of volumes in the have-to-mention Black and White tones, whereas Silvina Maestro, a truly sweet Maestro (Italian for master/teacher), flashed the same shades, not in nostalgia but in truly innovative volumes. A frontal window of awe was cut onto a piece not to emphasize on nudity, she explains, but on the natural femininity. Fabrics differed completely from transparent chiffons pulled to wrinkle in slashes and total fur full-dress - a true adverse in every term, of even minimalism and surprise.
However, the black and white blend was broken off into pastels at Gattinoni with splashes of lavender purples, ivory white floral, jute woven bags, silk-satin kaftans, oriental water colour flowers, Maya accessories, and a general play of transparency and Goth in pauses, all of which were swirled together into the collection.
The clashes were tapered down at Fausto Sarli to thoroughly Indian conventional colours alongside the repetitive hues of Black and white (so not normal in India); combined in an all-out India-inspired collection, which has turned out to be kind of a must-have in western fashion. Notable ensembles and inclinations were towards a Vedic age saffron sari, inevitable blooms, embroidered cuts, dupatta (scarf) drapery, a classic female suit of the Persian period similar to the pre-fall Chanel 2012 collection, and a comprehensively off-beat section of bridal wear, which, though was unattached, managed to stay soft and exhilarating.
Meanwhile, the other ventures of Alta Roma cannot be left unsaid with the A.I. Gallery portraying ‘The Origin of Trauma’, wherein Diego Buongiorno cut up a black network to liberate the exposure of the uncontrollable energy of the era we live in. In a similar white backdrop, Les Objects Singuliers reviewed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, displayed various silk prints hung on by 5 artists. An interesting cape inspired by Brioni by Grcic was also on display. Silvia Venturini took it upon herself to also emphasise the importance and quality of craftsmanship in Rome through Limited/Unlimited at Acquario Romano. In a black backdrop, unique pieces were installed developed by 32 designers, mostly of exciting marine colours. Though the press release was packed with mention of various movie inspirations, a clear designer root influence was highly evident in all of these singular morsels of their profiles.
Speaking of craftsmanship, last but not the least, the A.I. Fair has to be mentioned. Held open to the public in one of AltaRoma’s favourite buildings, the Tempio di Adriano, with the perfect mix of music, the place was packed. Hitherto, one could grab a view of amazing installations, either innovative or inspired from afar or even both. An interesting corner of broken porcelain-attached accessories and clothes and the upper level of vintage sci-fi outfits were a never-to-miss must-see amongst all the boom of varieties offered to us this year by Rome. In spite of the major black and white monochromes, Rome didn’t block itself of its handmade creativity this year in this city of contradictions.
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